How To Upgrade a 2015 & Prior FJR1300 to 2016 Slipper

by admin, April 28, 2016

This is a complete how-to vid showing you everything you need to convert your 2015 & prior Yamaha FJR1300 to the new 2016 slipper version.  This also gives you a clutch pull roughly 1/2 that of the previous years for a MUCH easier time especially in stop and go traffic.

Total parts cost is just under $300 as of the time of this video.  The graphic shows all the parts you will need to order circled in red, order from your supplier of choice. Order the Qty indicated on the supplier microfiche.

The order of part assembly for the stack is as follows:

On the basket, the flat washer then the sloped washer – note the printing, it slopes down. Then a new thin friction plate, a new clutch plate then the retaining wire.

With the basket in the engine, 4 pairs of new thick friction plates and clutch plates.  Then another new friction plate and 1 of the OLD clutch plates. Then a new thick friction plate, new clutch plate, finishing with a new THIN friction plate.

On the spring assembly, a new thin friction plate then a new THIN clutch plate.

WARNING – make SURE you carefully remove the ball bearing behind the small pushrod after you remove it, and replace it when reinstalling.

NOTE – holding the rear brake should also stop the rear tire from moving, to remove/install the main nut. If you choose to use the 5th gear/someone sitting on the bike method of removing the center nut, you DO RISK DROPPING THE BIKE as it will be moving forward under pressure.  Installation is safe.

Torque specs for the center nut are 65 lbs./ft, inner spring bolts 5 (good and snug) and cover 8.7 (very snug).

Microfiche sections are: Clutch, Engine Cover 1

  • PaddingtonPoohBear

    What a great idea, if/when my ’05 ever needs a clutch I’m definitely checking out if this is possible. Thanks for posting all these great vids. =)

    • lol It won’t 😉 The clutches last FAR longer than the rest of the bike – this is purely a ‘want’ upgrade!

  • Naoki Bailly

    Great video! Looking at the parts diagrams, it appears that “spacer 1” (labelled #21 in the images above) is a different part number between 2014 and 2016. Did you have to replace that part as well, or did it have the same specifications between model years?

  • Mike Powers

    I’m wondering if the same thing could have been accomplished just by replacing Items # 8 – 13 only? You are basically just installing softer release plate springs.

    • Not even close

      • Mike Powers

        So the entire clutch pack from Item #3 on outward has been redesigned for 2016? It was hard to see that from your video (no close ups) nor do I have microfiche of the older model assemblies.

        • Yes – my video is correct.

          • Mike Powers

            OK thanks.

  • Gene Cash

    Thanks for the new motorcycle!!

    I have a 2007 with 42K miles, and the clutch was easily the hardest I’ve had on any bike, or Harleys I’ve ridden. Recently I fell on a dirtbike and broke my hand, so I had to do something to be able to ride the bike again.

    Some observations:

    1. I have the Motion Pro 08-0008 clutch holder and it doesn’t work on the FJR since the clutch is too recessed into the engine. I used an electric impact driver to get the nut off. I didn’t have problems tightening the bolt either. I just put it in 2nd gear in my wheel chock and cranked it up to 65ft-lbs.

    2. My 2007 did not have the thin circular retainer wire (part #16 AKA the “clutch boss ring” 2H7-16385-00-00) nor did it have the groove for it around the base of the old clutch hub. I had to stop and order this part. Other than that, I ordered the same parts and simply followed your video.

    3. 2007 & 2008 bikes have a smaller clutch slave cylinder (part #29 AKA the “push lever comp” 5JW-16381-00-00). I installed a 2009 part and it’s 4mm bigger in diameter. The difference in clutch effort from this change alone was significant, and for $120 it was a bargain. Now that the clutch is updated as well, I actually enjoy riding this bike again. I no longer consider it “the beast” or a bit of a hassle.

    4. I noticed on a video ( where they mention that not only does the slipper clutch loosen on back-torque, it tightens on forward torque. This explains why they don’t need as much spring force, so it has a lighter pull. Oh, and they used parts from an R1 in the video, which look just like the FJR parts.

    5. The slipper part definitely works. If I popped out the clutch in 2nd, the rear would come loose instantly. Now I just get a slightly higher engine speed and there’s no drama.

    6. The adjustment range on the clutch lever is useful for the first time. I’ve actually got it on the middle adjustment now. I’ve never had a bike where it’s not simply all the way out – I have big hands.

    7. I have a really cool paperweight for work now. 🙂

    Thank you again.

  • Jeff Rosenberg

    Couple Questions: I noticed part #7, (Clutch Plate), on the diagram was never mentioned in your assembly. It has a unique part number. Did you use it? Also #17,(Clutch Plate), you said you used the middle option, (2.0), the parts list I’m looking at shows it has the same part number as the #6 Clutch Plates. Is that true, they are the same? Great Video, Thanks

  • Gordon Leech

    Has anyone done the slipper clutch upgrade to a 1st generation fjr? Just wondering if it is successful for a 1st gen. I am going to do a clutch rebuild with 110,000 on my 2005. I’m considering this an option.

    • A couple have commented to me that they have yes – but I don’t have specifics if anything is different.

      • Gordon Leech

        Great. Thanks. I just wanted to avoid putting it all together and then finding out there’s a 3 mm gap between the case and the cover. Sounds like it may be just fine though. If I go through with it, I’ll post my comments back here on the Gen 1 conversion.

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